So I wasn't planning on going to Hoi An this trip (I need to come back to Vietnam to hit the Northern cities) but after 5 weeks in Saigon, I
needed a break from the hustle and bustle of the city. I had heard such amazing tales of Hoi An and was so excited to see and experience it for myself.
Hoi An is in Central Vietnam and was used as a trading port for many centuries. It is an UNESCO World Heritage site as it conveys the various influences from outside countries on Vietnamese culture. Today, it is primarily known for its hundreds of tailor shops - literally you can get ANYTHING your heart desires. All you have to do is bring a picture of clothes, boots, shoes, or bags that you want, pick out fabric/material and within a DAY they will have your custom made piece. It was truly amazing experience (and made a
dent in my wallet!).
I flew to Da Nang, a city just 30 km north of Hoi An, on Friday morning (easy 1 hour flight) and shared a taxi with a fellow American (and West Coastian - she's from Oregon) woman named Rainie. Her 2.5 month travels include New Zealand, Bali, and now Vietnam. She's a physician assistant and owns a
golden doodle - what are the chances?? I think fate brought us lonely (well I was lonely) travelers together. We decided to spend the weekend together because speaking English, let alone with an American, does not happen often in Southeast Asia! I was so excited to have a pal for the weekend.
Friday afternoon we had a delicious lunch which included 3 mojitos each - I mean how could it not be scrumptious - and found this tailor shop called Yaly that my Aunt Suzanne and cousin Mer recommended (you can send your measurements and order from the US on their
website!). This shop was probably the most beautiful shop in Hoi An.
From my interpretation of the tailor's story, the building used to be a hospital and then a weaving factory. Whatever it was, it was stunning. We each had some idea of what we wanted made but after arriving at the shop, we were both overwhelmed by the books on books of pictures and continuous shelves of fabrics.
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| So much to choose from! |
We finally came to some solid plans for what we wanted, was measured, and then haggled the price a bit (though we definitely could've been better bargainers.) I really suck at bargaining, especially when everything is so cheap already...I need to utilize my aggressiveness from sports that's for sure.
Boy was it hot in Hoi An - like probably the hottest I've been in awhile and that's saying something considering Saigon is 100 with humidity every day. We grabbed some bikes to check out the beach that was about 5 km away. It was refreshing to see the ocean after only seeing dirty rivers for awhile!
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| Biking to the beach |
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| Cu Dai Beach |
Rainie was staying at a nice hotel while my "hotel" leaved much to be desired so we decided to go for a cool dip in the pool at her hotel. To our surprise, the pool was the temperature of a lukewarm bathtub aka not refreshing...but at least the water felt better than being soaked in our own sweat.
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| Hoi An is known for having such a beautiful night scene with lanterns! |
Saturday morning we stopped by another tailor (cheaper but less quality) to get some dresses made. Rainie found some boots she wanted made and then we went back to Yaly for our first fitting. After agreeing on some alterations we were told to come back that evening. I couldn't believe how quickly our clothes were made! We figured out that every tailor must have a factory or store outside of the town center that they send the plans and fabrics to. The "tailors" at the shop are usually just women who speak pretty good English and can mark clothes for alterations. I hope the factories have some decent working conditions but who knows...
I found a small leather bag that I wanted but needed it custom made because the strap wasn't long enough - tall person problems!! They tried to charge me $60 for a custom made bag but I told them $35 final offer and luckily they took it - though yet again I could've bargained better...
That evening, after showering off our exhausting day of shopping and 105 degree weather, we went for fittings at both tailors. We both wished the tailors had stronger AC, an AC period or even a shower so our fittings/experiences would be much more pleasant but how can we complain after getting custom clothes made! We had dinner at the most popular restaurant in Hoi An (if Lonely Planet says you're good - every foreigner will FLOCK there) and then went back to the hotel. The shower wasn't working at my "hotel" and Rainie graciously offered for me to stay in her room that night - so incredibly kind!
Sunday was full of appointments! We had our final fittings at our tailors though Rainie is staying till Wednesday so they didn't have to make her items as quick as mine and waited for our boots and bag to be delivered which took awhile...kind of made us nervous but both turned out great! I spent around $220 for 3 dresses, shorts, a top, and a leather bag - I'd say that's pretty good considering they're all custom made! I need to go back to Hoi An that's FOR sure.
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| This girl was hilarious! Tried to get us to make our clothes skimpier! |
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| New top and shorts - obviously won't wear them together! |
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| Dress #1 |
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| Dress #2 |
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| Dress #3 (navy maxi dress) and new leather bag! |
My flight was Sunday evening so unfortunately I had to head to the airport in the late afternoon. I seriously debated on changing my flight to Monday but decided I needed to head back to Saigon for my last week of volunteering. I was so happy to have spent the weekend with such an amazing travel partner! You never know who you will join paths with which makes traveling that much more enjoyable! I really needed that weekend away - Saigon was getting to me last week and I didn't realize how tense I was so in Hoi An, I was actually able to
breathe.
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| Calm streets of Hoi An unlike Saigon! |
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| For certain hours of the day, no motorbikes or cars are allowed on the streets of the old town - what a concept! |
Sidenote about my flight back to Saigon - I met 2 fellow Bay Area ladies (rep it!) and as we were waiting to deplane, this man in front of me projectile vomited into the waiting area at the front of the plane. And then a man behind me sneezed 3 times - I just about threw up myself...
Anyways the second part of the title of this post refers to some heel pain I started experiencing Saturday. We walked around a lot, I mean a LOT, and I was just in flip flops so my foot started to get sore. Nothing is worse than being hot, sweaty, and having a foot problem. It didn't bother me as much Sunday but today it was acting up again so I decided to find a foot doctor to figure this out before Stace arrives and our 3 week travels begin. Today I went to the American Chiropractic Clinic and actually saw an American doctor! It was weird and much different than the last clinic experience I had here. He said my heel is inflamed but it isn't serious (let's hope!). He made some adjustments and then performed an ultrasound and electric therapy. I have some "homework" tonight to fix the inflammation and then I will see him tomorrow morning. Praying that this doesn't get worse - the last thing I need is to have my foot hold me back from exploring as much as I can!
I think and hope I'm done with sickness and pain - I mean I've been to the clinic, pharmacy and chiropractor here! I guess I've truly experienced Vietnam now? I don't know.
2.5 days till Stace is here!!!!!! I'm not excited at all.
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